How to avoid counterfeit beauty products

Are the beauty and skincare products you’re ordering online the real deal? Federal officers, checking imports coming into the county, say they battle an influx of products made for other countries that may not pass U.S. regulations.

They also say they’re finding counterfeits, with unknown or dangerous ingredients.

INGREDIENTS ARE IMPORTANT

Makeup artist Joshua Martinez has a passion for tapping into a client’s confidence, “You can make people feel what they feel on the inside, on the outside.”

The owner of the Glam Haus Collective in Dallas said he’s selective about his tools.

“Ingredients mean something, they're very important,” said Martinez.

Martinez said he sources makeup from authorized sellers of the brands.

“I know they've been tested and they've been run through to make sure that it's safe for the eye area, it's safe for the lip area, it's safe for the skin,” Martinez said.

He tells us he’s had to inform the occasional client the product they brought in for themselves wasn’t the real deal.

“The compact is different, the writing's different, even the ingredients are a little different. Everything about it, it's different,” Martinez said. “Where did you get this? And… are you okay?”

Martinez warns it’s just not worth using something questionable.

“I don't know if those ingredients, that are in there, are FDA approved. Because at the end of the day, that's my reputation on the line,” Martinez said.

INSPECTING CERTAIN IMPORTS

Keeping counterfeit products out of the hands of consumers is one of the missions assigned to the U.S. Customs and Border Protection officers at the centralized exam station at DFW International Airport. Here, they’re taking a closer look at certain imports flying into North Texas.

Christian Caro, Chief of Trade and Cargo Operations for the Area Port of Dallas, pointed to products officers suspect are fakes made to look like the real deal.

“We have some examples of counterfeit beauty products,” said Caro. “Based on the labeling, it says that our manufacturer in this case is France. However, this is coming from China.”

Caro said the feds will check with the actual brands to confirm if they are counterfeit. The FDA may then examine them to determine if they meet U.S. regulations.

Information on items identified as fakes can be turned over to the U.S. Department of Homeland Security Investigations.

“Anything they can use to replicate the look of the actual product, the legitimate product, that's what they're going for,” said Senior Special Agent Cynthia Manning. “The concern is not whether or not someone gets harmed in the process of utilizing these products. It's all about the profit line.”

Manning said she's concerned about products disguised as name brands that may contain dangerous bacteria or harmful chemicals.

“They're using all sorts of products we would never imagine utilizing to put on our face. We would never intentionally apply boric acid to our face,” Manning said.

A 2018 report by the U.S. Government Accountability Office pointed to information from federal officers who seized counterfeit cosmetics that contained cyanide, arsenic, mercury, lead, rat droppings and urine.

“Some of those factories are using cat urine to mimic the color of the actual true and legitimate product,” Manning explained.

Spotting an illegitimate product may be harder for consumers now.

As another recent GAO report explains counterfeit sales have shifted from “underground” or secondary markets, like sidewalk vendors, to the mainstream.

Sales happen on e-commerce websites where counterfeiters may post photos of real products with fake reviews. They may list a price just under or right at the retail price of the genuine item to avoid raising red flags.

According to U.S. Customs and Border Protection, ports within the Houston Field Office area of responsibility which includes ports in North Texas, counted 479 seizures of over 491,00 units of personal care products so far in fiscal year 2023, which ends September 30. Personal care products include cosmetics.

Seizure line statistics found here for fiscal year 2021 count 3,155 personal care and pharmaceutical seizures - making up about three percent of CBP seizures nationwide. In fiscal year 2020, CBP reported 2,819 seizures of pharmaceuticals and personal care products, approximately four percent of all types of products seized.

"THERE CAN BE SEVERE REPERCUSSIONS"

“Family, friends, they ask, ‘What do you think about this?' There are so many things out there," said Dr. Mary Hurley, the founder and CEO of North Dallas Dermatology Associates.

“When we're talking about these counterfeit products, people need to realize it's your skin, it's your face. There can be severe repercussions,” explained Dr. Hurley. “Not just the rashes, the irritation, but sometimes potential discoloration of the skin.”

We met Dr. Hurley after reaching out to SkinCeuticals, a brand founded in Dallas. It recommends consumers buy from authorized sellers like Dr. Hurley.  

SkinCeuticals lists those retailers on its website and shared illustrations, highlighting some of the tiny differences like label position, between counterfeits and its genuine product.

Dr. Hurley said she reminds patients to do their research and trust their instincts, “You'll be able to tell when you open it, when you smell it, when you feel it on the back of your hand if it feels off.”

CONSUMERS CAN SCRUTINIZE WHILE SHOPPING

Major retailers like Walmart.com, Amazon and other stores allow third parties to sell to customers on their websites. When shopping, confirm who is selling, fulfilling and shipping the order. If you’re not familiar with the third party, take a few more moments to read their reviews and find out more about the seller.

Amazon points NBC 5 Responds to its most recent brand protection report which says it took more than six million counterfeit product units out of the global supply chain. Included in its efforts, it says it works with U.S. Customs and Border Protection to exchange information and stop counterfeit goods destined for its fulfillment network.

Walmart tells NBC 5 Responds that, in part, it invests heavily in technology, people and policies to protect customers and provide a safe channel for third-party sellers. It also said it makes it easy for customers, sellers and brands to report concerns.

We reached out to Paula’s Choice and CeraVe with photos of the items CBP detained back at its exam station.

Paula’s Choice tells us in an email, “Illegitimate sales, product tampering and reselling are beauty industry issues that deserve close attention and consumer awareness. Product safety, quality & efficacy is of utmost importance to us.”

It also said it has closely controlled points of distribution communicated to customers to ensure they receive authentic Paula’s Choice products.

Its website says its products are available through carefully selected retailers and includes a link where customers can find them on Amazon.

CeraVe said it also recommends using the retail locator on Cerave.com to find an authorized seller, which includes most major retail outlets to avoid suspected counterfeits.

“As a professional telling the consumer or my client, do your research and if you have questions, ask me,” said Martinez.

“It is very important that our consumers actually pay very close attention to what they're purchasing, where they're purchasing it from,” said Manning. “A deal is not always a deal.”

Additional tips for consumers include: keeping an eye out for an unusually low price and low-quality packaging. There may be grammar and spelling mistakes on labels. The U.S. Chamber of Commerce offers some general shopping tips here too.

Officials explained counterfeiters work to make the products look very close to the originals. If you suspect you purchased a counterfeit product, contact the place where you bought it and let the brand know. Consumers may also use this link to contact CBP.

NBC 5 Responds is committed to researching your concerns and recovering your money. Our goal is to get you answers and, if possible, solutions and a resolution. Call us at 844-5RESPND (844-573-7763) or fill out our customer complaint form.