Another day, another media outlet drawing the wrath of President-elect Donald Trump.
Today it's Vanity Fair, which reviewed Trump Grill, the steakhouse in the lobby of Trump Tower, under the scathing headline, "Trump Grill Could Be the Worst Restaurant in America."
The clubby restaurant, according to the magazine, is a "cheap version of rich," featuring "flaccid, gray Szechuan dumplings with their flaccid, gray innards," "a stingy number of French-ish paintings that look as though they were bought from Home Goods," and a steak that was "overcooked and mealy, with an ugly strain of pure fat running through it, crying out for A.1. sauce."
The mocking takeaway was replete with lines like these:
"Renowned butcher Pat LaFrieda once dared me to eat an eyeball that he himself popped out of the skull of a roasted pig. That eyeball tasted better than the Trump Grill's (Grille's) Gold Label Burger, a Pat LaFrieda–branded short-rib burger blend molded into a sad little meat thing, sitting in the center of a massive, rapidly staling brioche bun, hiding its shame under a slice of melted orange cheese."
And: "If the cheeseburger is a quintessential part of America's identity, Trump's pledge to 'make America great again' suddenly appeared not very promising. (Presumably, Trump's Great America tastes like an M.S.G.-flavored kitchen sponge lodged between two other sponges.)"
On Twitter, Trump was understandably less than pleased with the magazine and its editor, Graydon Carter, though without mentioning the pan of his place: "Has anyone looked at the really poor numbers of @VanityFair Magazine. Way down, big trouble, dead! Graydon Carter, no talent, will be out!"
Trump and Carter have a long history of antipathy. Carter was a co-founder of Spy magazine, which skewered Trump mercilessly as a vulgar representative of ostentation in New York in the 1980s.